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Posts Tagged ‘travel’

 

Have you ever visited a place for the first time, and instantly felt an affinity for it? Paris was like that for me… I had read at least a dozen books, both non-fiction and novels, about Paris, but when I finally visited the City of Lights–at the age of 32, I almost felt at home. Paris remains my favorite city in the world, but after spending just 36 hours in Buenos Aires, I’m in love with it, too. Of course, both cities should be on anyone’s bucket list, and many of us will be lucky enough to visit these cities multiple times in our lifetime.

Here comes the caveat… I visited Buenos Aires from São Paulo, where I’ve been living for the past year. I am not a city girl. I am a country girl, and despite São Paulo’s many wonderful attributes (which I’ll blog about soon), it has been challenging for me to live in a place that is so massive, so dense (population, design, energy), and with the worst traffic I’ve ever experienced, and this coming from the girl who’s lived in London and Manhattan and who has visited Tokyo and Hong Kong.

Nearly 3 million people live in Buenos Aires, but the city still seems incredibly open, with its wide boulevards, wide sidewalks, bicycle lanes and many parks. The food is nothing short of amazing, and the service impeccable. It offers a lot of the Latin experience but with a distinctly European flair.

My husband and I went for our anniversary, but could only manage one night, traveling in one day and out the next. We chose to walk everywhere so that we could really get to know and appreciate the city. We walked about 10 miles the first day, ate an amazing dinner at Proper then went to see the Rojo Tango Show at Hotel Faena. Because we only had one night, we spent up for the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt in Recoleta (first photo), which is lovely and grand with a beautiful courtyard between the two buildings on the site. Even if you don’t stay in the Palacio Duhau when you visit Buenos Aires, do go for brunch, lunch, or a cocktail.

We didn’t visit the museums, which I plan to do next time I go (should I get that lucky), but we shopped the cute boutiques in Palermo Soho (great for leather goods or the coated skinny jeans I’m wearing below!), toured the Japanese gardens, walked around the landmark building in Puerto Madero and visited the famous Sunday flea market in San Telmo.

 

 

The two biggest surprises for us: 1) how safe we felt; and 2) how many people speak English.  The hotel passed out a flyer on street safety when they heard we were going to walk across town, but the flyer only cautioned against pickpockets. Homes and apartment buildings look just like they do in most cities in the U.S., only with more interesting architecture in my opinion. They don’t all have massive spiked or electrified walls with guards behind bulletproof glass, and/or double gated entryways like in São Paulo. Lots of locals were walking around us, with seemingly carefree attitudes. We expected more people to speak English in Buenos Aires compared with São Paulo since Buenos Aires is a major holiday travel destination. However, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that everyone we encountered, from the bellhop at the hotel to the random taxi or Uber driver to the person clearing our dishes in the restaurant to the sales clerk in the boutique, spoke very good English.

If your plans to take you to South America, either for work or vacation, make sure Buenos Aires is part of your itinerary, and hopefully you’ll have more than 36 hours to spend there!

 

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I thought that after moving to Brazil I would be trying all sorts of local dishes and generally cooking up a storm. However, between work, and my oven, which doesn’t have a broil function, and my burners, which don’t allow any simmering, I have reduced my cooking ambitions enormously. Add this to the fact that everything I do here in Brazil takes longer than it did in California. For example, I used to ride my bicycle to take my son to school, which roundtrip amounted to approximately 20 minutes. Now I go by car to take my children to school and it takes 50 to 60 minutes–and another 50-60 to collect them in the afternoon. So my cooking has suffered, but we are making the most of living here by visiting some beautiful beaches.

Here’s a snapshot of some of the beaches we’ve visited thus far, along with a few photos of each.

Porto de Galinhas – The town itself is fairly touristy with only so-so food, but the area boasts expansive beaches, clear water and natural pools in which you can safely snorkel. We stayed at the beautiful Nannai resort outside of town, where we overate at every meal since the buffet spreads (I posted a a few pics on my Instagram) were out of this world and just too tempting to resist. The area is easy to access by flying into Recife then taking a one hour car ride south.

 

Praia dos Carneiros – We first visited this beach just for a day as part of our trip to Porto de Galinhas (it’s about an hour’s drive south), but we immediately wanted to go back. So a few weeks later, we made a special trip Praia dos Carneiros and stayed in a modest pousada.

We love this beach because it has a very sleepy, underdeveloped, and even still wild aspect to it. Everywhere you see jungle that looks impenetrable even though it’s probably not. There’s a fairly famous (at least to Brazilians) restaurant, Beijupa, right on the beach.

 

 

Buzios – Often referred to as the St Tropez of South America, Buzios is a charming town with great little boutiques, amazing food (many of the best restaurants are owned by Argentines), and crystal clear water for snorkeling and diving. Twenty-eight beaches surround the town, some of which are easier to access than others. I saw incredible sea creatures I’ve never seen before, and coral that looks like giant red potatoes. (Too bad I don’t have an underwater camera, and that the waterproof case I bought for my iPhone is impossible to use in the water!) I celebrated my birthday at Rocka Beach Club and Lounge which has a picture perfect view overlooking the beach.

Buzios is slightly more difficult to get to in that you have to fly into Rio de Janeiro then make a 4-5 hour journey by car to the actual town, but I loved it. We stayed in a modest but comfortable pousada on the hill above one of the beaches, and even though Brazil is a long, long way from home (California), I can envision having a home to retire to in Buzios.

Happy trails!

 

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I went with my little family to Tulum, Mexico last month, and I have to say, it was one of our best trips–ever.

We travel to Mexico nearly every year, but always on the west side, I suppose because we know it and it’s closer. I didn’t realize the east side looked completely different, and thus always thought, why take a 5-6 hour flight to Mexico when you can get there in 3-4? However, the east side–at least the Yucatan Peninsula where Tulum is located, is really beautiful and very different from the west. Lush jungles abound and mangroves grow for as far as the eye can see. We saw manatees and a crocodile during our adventures, as well as ancient Mayan ruins, and everywhere turquoise-blue waters.

I love that most of the hotels in Tulum are relatively small and strive to be eco-friendly. I must admit they all run off diesel generators since Tulum is off the grid, but some people would like to change that, and the visionary owners of Be Tulum and Nomade–two gorgeous resorts on the far end of the resort strip, would like to bring clean energy in. I can imagine how a visit to visit Tulum would be even better without the noise or air pollution of generators running night and day behind every hotel? I can already see them powered by clean, renewable energy from the sun, of which there is plenty.

But let’s get back to the beach…

Tulum gives off a different vibe than many resort towns in Mexico. First off it’s relatively small, and because many of the resorts take an “eco” approach, many buildings are small, low to the ground, and nestled in the trees, so when you’re walking on the beach, the land retains its jungle-ness. As a health-conscience person, I also loved that many of restaurants offered salads from local and organically-produced gardens, acai bowls and vegan dressings. While I imagine a lot of people visiting the area while I was there might have over indulged in cocktails (mezcal is the thing to drink there), I never saw any sign of it. What I did see were people relaxing, enjoying good food and long walks on the beach (you can walk forever there), taking yoga and meditation classes, and generally “chillaxin.”

Our little haven off of our room at Be Tulum.

Gorgeous, stylish rooms at Be.

 

Every morning we received an amazing basket of breads, including croissants, “Mexican” bread (as I call it because I don’t know if it has a particular name), rye and sweet breads. While I generally shun gluten, I admit I relished the morning gluten fest. The bread in Mexico has a certain something about it, which I find irresistible.

We also received an incredible assortment of fruit along with granola and yogurt. In fact, after we had polished off the bread and fruit, we were always left wondering why we bothered to order other dishes like chilaquiles, omelets and pancakes. After breakfast, we had to roll down the sandy slope toward the part of the beach which housed the cabanas, where we slept off the big morning meal or read until lunch. And speaking of lunch, I always wondered how many days can one really eat tacos. And in truth, nearly every day–at least once a day.

 

 

One day we hired a boat to take us through Sian Ka’an, the nature preserve just a short drive past the hotels and resorts. That’s where we saw a family of manatees that swam up close to the boat out of sheer curiosity. We also saw a crocodile through the mangrove branches, but as I only had my iPhone on me at the time, I wasn’t able to get a decent pic. In the preserve, our boatman dropped us off on the side of one of the mangrove-lined channels, and led us over a 500-meter (roughly) raised wooden walkway to another channel in which fresh water flowed. It flowed fast enough that there was a decent current, so we donned life vests and literally floated through the channel several kilometers after which our boatman was there to meet us. It was an incredible experience I can’t recommend enough!

Snorkeling in Yal-Ku Lagoon.

 

On another day, we explored one of the many cenotes (natural pits, or sinkholes, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater underneath) in the area. Most of the cenotes are filled with fresh water, but cenotes can have salt water as well. Yal-Ku lagoon in Akumal, just a short drive from Tulum, is a gorgeous salt-water cenote. There are incredible rock formations, underwater caves and channels, and numerous varieties of tropical fish. The biggest parrot fish I’ve ever seen were in Yal-Ku. We had a great snorkeling experience there, but I recommend going early when there are fewer tourists and swimmers around. The most famous cenotes in the area–Grand Cenote and Casa Cenote, are on the top of our list for our next visit to Tulum.

Tulum Ruins near Akamal.

We also visited the Tulum ruins just outside of Tulum. Right on the edge of the ocean, they were well worth the short drive and confusion over where to buy tickets. Note: Don’t stand in line to get your tickets from a person, go to one of the two tickets machines on the left before the long lines of people waiting to talk to a ticket agent, and use your credit card. It will take you 2 minutes instead of 20.

We chose not to visit the famous Chicheniza ruins–approximately a 2.5-3-hour drive from Tulum, out of sheer laziness and because we found the Tulum ruins pretty impressive in their own right. However, we might stretch our horizons next time we visit as Chicheniza is supposed to be pretty spectacular.

We heard great things about the Monkey Sanctuary (also just outside Akumal), but we were too late to join a tour the day we went there, and too short on remaining days of our trip. If you plan to visit the area, have your hotel book a tour for you in advance. Sadly, the only monkey we saw was a dead one on the side of the road as we drove from the airport to Tulum.

If you have the chance to visit Tulum, take it. It won’t disappoint. Just a simple 1.5-hour drive from Cancun Airport, it feels like another world. Just remember to say “hello” to the monkeys and parrot fish for me.

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You might be wondering where the food photos and recipes are, but along with wildlife, traveling is most decidedly my other great passion. As it happens, my family has done a lot of traveling this summer, and we’ve been lucky enough to visit some historically-rich and beautiful cities.

If you missed my post on Florence, please check it out here. Otherwise, take a minute or two to get at least a little familiar with the small but incredibly gorgeous town of San Miguel de Allende which lies 274km northwest of Mexico City. I had heard about it for years, and now wonder why I didn’t go sooner.

My husband travels to Mexico regularly for his work, and although it was very last minute, the kids and I booked to accompany him since it was the same week as his birthday. After spending a couple days in Mexico City, we hired a car to take us to San Miguel de Allende. It was certainly an adventure… Google Maps said the drive would take 3.5 hours, so we all looked forward to a little scenery, and a dip in the pool of our hotel when we arrived. Seven hours later… Yep, the predicted 3.5 hours turned into 7 hours. There is only one road between the two cities, on which a truck carrying some sort of fuel (gas or oil) crashed and spilled its highly flammable cargo. And unlike in the U.S., Mexico does not have a rapid response system set up to deal with such things, so they closed the only road between the two cities for hours. Based on the reports of others, it would have taken 10 or 11 hours that day, but we took matters into our own hands, and asked our driver to go off road in order to skirt the closure. Please be advised: this is not recommended!! When you leave the highway, you drive on narrow, unmarked dirt and rock roads through “rancherias,” which are entirely unpoliced areas considered very dangerous–particularly at night. We only took this desperate measure because we were losing our minds parked for hours on the highway, and because the SUV we were in happened to have “protective properties.”

Seven hours later we arrived in San Miguel de Allende, which is hands down one of the most beautiful towns, if not the most beautiful town, we have ever laid eyes on. Narrow cobblestoned streets are lined with buildings painted with rich colors of the earth–terra cotta, saffron yellow, burnt red. You see exquisitely-carved doors everywhere, and magical courtyards abound. Throughout the center of town you see Spanish colonial architecture, which greatly adds to the beauty of this small town. (In addition to being one of the most affluent cities in Mexico, San Miguel de Allende lays claim to the start of Mexico’s independence from Spain.) Beyond its physical beauty, the historic town boasts a thriving arts and cultural scene, and the food is phenomenal. In fact, the food is quite fancy, serving dishes similar to what you find in high-end NYC or San Francisco restaurants only using local ingredients. We actually bemoaned the fact we couldn’t find and didn’t have time to just eat some good and simple enchiladas or other “traditional” Mexican fare.

Another surprisingly aspect of the town was how lush and green it was. In fact, the entire area was incredibly green. It’s the rainy season now, but we were told it is green nearly year-round. And the rains come just in the afternoon for an hour or two–just enough to water all the vegetation and clean the sidewalks and streets. Very efficient.

One thing is certain… We will return to this memorable little town soon.

Happy sightseeing!

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View of Il Duomo from my sister's apartment.

View of Il Duomo from my sister’s apartment.

 

I just returned from Italy where I visited Florence and Rome to celebrate my mother’s 80th birthday.

Since I love traveling as much as I love food, I thought I’d share some of my pictures and experiences with you here.

I find it ironic–given I eat pasta maybe once every two years, that I ate paste every day I was in Italy. The pasta was so fresh and delicious, and there were so many types to choose from, that I never ran out of something new to try. Not only do the Italians offer so many different kinds of noodles, but they also prepare an incredible variety of sauces. I ate wild boar ragu, spring vegetables, pesto, bolognese, basic marinara, spicy sausage with “black cabbage” and vongole (pasta with clams)–the list goes on. Oh, and the fresh burrata! It was dessert for me. Of course, I also had to try the cannoli, the gelato and the tiramisu. Much to both my joy and horror, the hotel we stayed at just outside of Florence offered several tarts each morning as part of its large breakfast buffet. I tried to eat carefully and healthy–choosing sauteed mushrooms, eggs, fruit and roast tomatoes most mornings, but the tarts and Nutella-filled chocolate-glazed croissants called my name loudly each morning. And after all, I was on vacation!

Here are just a few photos of Florence–many of which will be very familiar if you’ve ever visited, along with some of the delicious food I ate (and appear to still be carrying around). If you follow me on Instagram, a few of the photos are repeated (sorry!). I will share photos from the rest of my trip in a subsequent post because I have so many I’m excited to share.

View over Firenze from the Piazzale di Michelango.

View over Firenze from the Piazzale di Michelango.

Il Duomo in the evening light.

Il Duomo in the evening light.

A church--unassuming from the outside, that we wandered into to escape the punishing heat outside.

A church–unassuming from the outside, that we wandered into to escape the punishing heat outside.

Florence's version of a farmer's market inside the Mercato Centrale.

Florence’s version of a farmer’s market inside the Mercato Centrale.

Tomatoes that tasted like candy with burrata.

Tomatoes that tasted like candy with burrata.

Perfectly roasted octopus on a bed of sauteed greens.

Perfectly roasted octopus on a bed of sauteed greens.

The most amazing little lunch place (Enoteca Tognoni) in the quaint town of Bolgheri.

The most amazing little lunch place (Enoteca Tognoni) in the quaint town of Bolgheri.

Lovely Siena the day before the Palio horse race.

Lovely Siena the day before the Palio horse race.

Siena's plaza tower.

Siena’s plaza tower.

A lovely Siena courtyard with frescoed ceilings.

A lovely Siena courtyard with frescoed ceilings.

Il Duomo in Siena.

Il Duomo in Siena.

Stripes!!

Stripes!!

Lunch at 4 Leoni in the Artisan quarter.

Lunch at 4 Leoni in the Artisan quarter.

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In the past, in honor of Earth Day, I’ve given suggestions on ways people can lessen their impact on our Earth. However, increasingly, I think people will care more about the Earth and want to take part in preserving its health and beauty if they simply connect more with it. So this year, I thought I’d simply share some of my favorite images that celebrate the incredible beauty of this planet we call home. I hope you enjoy them.

 

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